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RC8.2 building guide

Discussion in 'RC8 / RC8B / RC8.2 / RC8B3.x' started by AERacer, Jun 5, 2012.

  1. AERacer

    AERacer Administrator Staff Member Moderator Factory Member

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    [​IMG]
    Here is a bag-by-bag building guide for the RC8.2

    Bag A
    The Bag A consists on the installation of the side mud guards. On the RC8.2, the mud guards have been modified and shortened. Only two screws are now required to install them compared to the three screws from the previous kits. The shorter mud guards help to reduce the overall weight of the buggy without scarifying performance or durability.

    The new mud guards are easier to install. The screw holes align perfectly with the holes in the chassis. This was not the case with the previous versions of the RC8 buggy. The channel used for the fuel lines is still present. The chassis has been lengthened by 3mm for better traction and handling.

    In this step, you must also install the two aluminum steering posts. Installation is very easy; just don’t forget to apply blue thread lock onto the screws.
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    Bag B
    The first step is to assemble the servo saver. Pay close attention to the orientation of the servo arms during the building process. It is easy to confuse them. Team Associated recommends to add a little bit of black grease between servo saver’s cams and to add thread lock to the servo saver’s adjustment thumb screw. The grease will simply make the servo saver works smoother and the thread lock will prevent the thumb screw from unscrewing.

    The servo saver is exactly the same as the one found on the previous versions of the buggy. No changes have been made.
    The turnbuckles are pre-adjusted and assembled at the factory. I suggest you to double check the length of each of them before installation, just to make sure they are the right length. When assembling the turnbuckles, pay a very close attention to the orientation of each turnbuckle. The instructions are clear but you better check twice before going further in the installation.

    The installation of the steering drag link to the bell cranks is easy. No special comment here, just follow the instructions manual.
    You should then install the front body mount to the top plate, make sure the body clip hole is aligned correctly before tightening the body post to the top plate. When you’ll install the front chassis brace to the top plate, be sure to install the brace on the right side of the top plate, not in the center. Use a drop of thread lock to secure the brace’s screw to the top plate.
    Next step is to install the steering assembly to the chassis. This is a very easy step. Just follow the instructions. Once the steering is installed on the chassis, install the top plate. A very important point here is to make sure the bottom of the brace is correctly aligned to the chassis’ grove before tightening the top plate onto the steering posts. Follow the instructions to complete the steering assembly installation.
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    Once the steering assembly is installed, all steering components must move freely. If there is a binding, you did something wrong and you must inspect all parts for proper installation.

    Bag C
    Team Associated has always used us to have the differentials already assembled for us. This is no more the case for the RC8.2, we have to assemble the diffs ourselves. That’s the only negative (if it is one) point about the diffs. The rest is only good news. The new Team Associated RC8.2 includes new light weighted ring gears for all three diffs, new redesigned and light weighted the front and rear diff’s outdrives. The diff housing has been lightly redesigned too. It seems that AE has wanted a more lightweight drive train to increase acceleration and to reduce the overall weight of the buggy. The final drive ratio is still the same, 4.3:1.

    Assembling the diffs is easy but it is a little time consuming. It is very important to pay close attention to details. Applying black grease (included in the kit) to every o-rings is very important. All three differentials use different outdrives. You can recognize the center diff’s outdrives by their flat shape used for the brake disks. The front and rear diffs use new outdrives that are almost identical. Pay a very close attention to the outdrives length. The front diff uses the longest outdrives while the rear diff uses the shortest ones. I have had to rebuild my front and rear diffs because I mixed up the outdrives!

    Once the right outdrives for the right differential has been assembled, simply insert the spider gear assembly and add oil. Team Associated included a bottle of 5000wt diff oil for the three diffs. 5-5-5 is a very common diff setup for the RC8 buggies. Don’t overfill the diffs with oil. I usually stop filling the diff when oil level reaches 1mm above the spider gear. Rotate the diff to make sure oil goes everywhere in the diff and to eliminate air bubbles.

    It is now time to close the diffs. I always apply a little amount of black grease on the ring gear where the gasket goes. This prevents the gaskets from moving when putting together both sections of the differential. I also use a screw to align all together the ring gear, gasket and diff housing. Evenly tight the four screws using an X pattern and rotate the diffs to make sure everything is spinning correctly. Differentials need a little time to spin freely and require a break in period. Once completely assembled, if the differentials are hard to turn or feel gritty, you can remove one or two shims located between the diff o-ring and the sun gear. Don’t run your buggy if a differential doesn’t spin freely. After few runs, all the differentials will be completely broken in. Reinspect them to make sure they are not too loose or too tight. You may add a shim if required.
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    To not confuse the front (long outdrives) and rear (short outdrives) diffs, take the time to identify them. This might save you frustration and precious time when it will be the time to install them into the buggy.


    Bag D
    Now that you have gone through the differentials assembly, the front bulkhead assembly will be really easy for you. There are many new parts in this bag. First, the new revised shock tower has traded its blue anodized color for a simple black finish. A new B-Plate is also included. White nylon inserts replace the adjustable hinge pin bushings.

    Another new part is the lightweight aluminum gearbox input cup that will reduce the rotating mass and will increase acceleration. The CVA pin retainer found in the previous kits is now replaced by a rubber o-ring. A rubber boot protects the CVA of debris and reduces maintenance. Apply black grease to the CVA for smoother operation. I’m still skeptic regarding the new “huge” rubber o-ring that is now used to retain the CVA pin. If Team Associated has changed the metal clip for a rubber o-ring, there must be a good reason but I prefer the metal clip.

    The rest of the assembly is pretty much straight forward. Nothing special, just follow the instructions manual and you will be fine. Make sure bearings are fully inserted into the gearbox. Don’t forget to apply thread lock where indicated. Once everything is put together, make sure everything is spinning free.
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    Bag E

    Bag E contains all the parts to complete the front end of the buggy including the drivetrain, the steering and the suspension.

    There are a lot of new parts in this bag. First, Team Associated has included the Factory Team blue anodized steering blocks, new lightweight aluminum stub axles, redesigned caster blocks, new a-arms, new sway bar drop links, new upper arms, new inner hinge pins and new sway bars. That makes a lot of new parts!
    One of the very first steps is to assemble the steering blocks into the caster blocks. This step is very important and requires attention. This is explained in the instructions manual but I will repeat. The short bushing and the short screw are used for the top and the long bushing and screw for the bottom. Each bushing has a triangle shape at one of its end. It must face the steering block. The triangle must be keyed correctly into the steering block. I use a flat screw to key the insert into the steering block. Once it is keyed correctly, I use the appropriate screw, don’t use the screw with a hex on both ends, they are the droop screws. Don’t forget to apply thread lock to prevent the screws from coming loose. Once assembled, the steering blocks must move freely within the caster blocks.

    We must apply thread lock at many places for this bag, A good trick is to pour few drops on a plastic bag on which I simply dip the screws in to apply thread lock. This makes application of the thread lock much easier.

    For the next step, make sure you install the new sway bar links in the right direction, the pivot ball must point backward the car. Install the droop screw, the screw head goes under the a-arm. As mentioned above, the droop screws have a hex on each ends, don’t mix them with the caster blocks screws.
    When assembling the caster block to the a-arm. Pay a very close attention to the red and blue caster bushings. It is very important to install them correctly. The blue ones go with the writings down and must be inserted in the front of the caster block. The red one goes with the writing pointing up and goes in the rear side of the caster block. The a-arms, the upper arms and caster blocks are labeled Left/Right.
    This is not shown in the instructions but you must install the hinge pin to attach the caster block to the a-arm and you also must install the retaining screw.

    A small modification has been made to the installation of the upper arm. In the previous kits, the turnbuckle’s end was sandwiched between two cone washers. Now, the two same cone washers go between the turnbuckle’s end and the rear of the caster block.
    Two hinge pin bushings (2 dots) were missing, after a quick investigation, I’ve found them in the bag F.
    The rest of the assembling is quite easy. Just make sure you install the hinge pin bushing in the right direction (dots up or down). It is not indicated but for safety, I’ve applied thread lock to the two 3x6mm bhcs screws used to retain the shock tower hinge pin bushings.

    At no place the instructions say to apply grease to the ring gear before installing the front end to the chassis. However, I suggest you to apply black grease to the ring gear and spin the pinion until the ring gear is fully greased. The same is also true for the rear diff.

    [​IMG]


    Bag F

    Bag F is almost a copy and paste of bag D. The new parts are the new shock tower, the aluminum gearbox input cup, the CVA boot and the pin retainer o-ring. When assembling, make sure bearings are fully inserted into the gearbox.

    Assembling is super easy, just follow the instructions. Apply thread lock to the cup’s set screw and to the shock standoffs. The rear chassis brace mounts to the right (passenger) side of the rear gearbox. Also, make sure the hinge pin bushings are 2 dot down and you use the right screws. It is easy to confuse 10mm and 12mm screws. Refer to the 1:1 chart located at the end of the instructions manual.
    [​IMG]
    No special attention is required during the assembly of Bag F. In 15 minutes you should have completely assembled all the parts. That’s all!


    Bag G

    There are many new parts in the Bag G among them; you can find the new rear a-arms, new sway bar links, totally new rear mud guards. Team Associated has upgraded the front steering block to aluminum but has kept the plastic rear hub carriers.

    The first steps are to assemble the CVA and the rear hub carriers. Nothing new at the exception of the 3x8mm shcs screw instead of a set screw like in the previous kits. The a-arms are labeled left/right for a better identification. Next comes the sway bar links, when installing them, make sure the pivot ball is facing forward the buggy. Just like for the front suspension, the droop screws have a hex on both ends and must be installed with the head facing down. The mud guards are securely attached with 2 3x12mm screws. They will protect and keep clean the rear suspension and drivetrain components.

    Double check the manual when it will be the time to install the camber links. It is easy to inverse. When installing the sway bar, the 3x3mm setscrews for the pivot balls were missing. I’ve found them in the H bag. I’ve applied thread lock to the camber link’s screws even if they use nuts with nylon inserts.
    [​IMG]
    For the last step, make sure the suspension is free of any binding. If it feels stiff, double inspect all parts.


    Bag H
    The Team Associated RC8.2 comes with a totally new wing mount. The wing holds in place by two screws instead of the four screws used in the previous kits. The new wing mount uses fewer parts and makes wing removal much easier. The kit includes a black JConcepts Illuzion wing.

    The wing installation is a child play and I have noted no particular problem with its installation.
    The next step is to install the rear end to the chassis. There are only two things to remember for this step. The first one is to apply a light coat of black grease to the chassis where the gearbox’s gasket goes to make it holds in place during assembly. The next thing to remember is to make sure that the rear brace is perfectly slotted into the chassis before tightening the brace to the chassis.
    [​IMG]
    You should not spend a lot of time with the assembling of the Bag H. All steps are clearly explained in the instructions manual.


    Bag I

    It should not take you more than 10 minutes to assemble all the parts of the Bag I. When installing the brake pads, make sure you install them on the correct side of the bulkhead. The pads go on the bulkhead’s non flanged side. Don’t tight the pads too much, you should have a 4.5mm gap between each brake pad. When installing the brake cams, the flat side must face the brake pad.

    I recommend you to assemble the whole bulkhead and center diff before trying to attach them to the chassis. Don’t forget to install the CVA bones into the center diff outdrives before installing it to the chassis.
    [​IMG]


    Bag J
    Team Associated has accustomed us to assemble the shocks for us. For the RC8.2 you’ll need to assemble the shocks yourself. Like with the previous kits, Team Associated has included a bottle of shocks fluid. This time, 30wt is the recommended weight. There are few new parts in this bag but they all make big difference. Among the new parts, there are new shock piston (5x 1.1mm + 5×1.2mm), new shock shafts, new springs and new boots. When building the shocks, make sure you install the piston tapered side down.

    Even if the shocks are not assembled, they are easy to assemble. They don’t use a lot parts and all you need to assemble them is included in the kit. Team Associated has included two tools to facilitate shocks assembly.
    The instructions manual is very clear about shock assembling and how to adjust rebound. Pay close attention to the shock boots, the longer ones are for the rear shocks. It is a good idea to separate all the parts before starting to assemble the shocks. The manual says to install the shock boot washer but they are not provided with the kit. From what Team Associated told me, they are no more required and the manual should not show them. I have adjusted my shocks to have no rebound. This is done during the bladder installation and this is very clearly explained in the manual.

    Installing the front and rear shocks is a breeze. However, when I wanted to adjust the front droop to 106mm as specified in the manual, I’ve faced a little problem. I was not able to have more than 102mm of front droop. The droop stopper tabs on the chassis slightly touch the front a-arms. With a Dremel, I have removed about 1mm of material on the a-arms and now I can get full droop and adjust the droop to 106mm. I suspect the B-Plate to have had changed the suspension geometry. That’s uncommon for Team Associated to have that kind of issues with their kits. No issue with the rear suspension, I have adjusted the droop to 122mm.
    [​IMG]

    Once the shocks are installed, inspect and move the suspension to make sure nothing is binding and all components move freely.


    Bag K
    The RC8B has introduced the forward battery box location and the new RC8.2 uses exactly the same radio tray as its predecessor. No new parts for the RC8.2, all the parts are the same. There are few steps that you should be aware, especially when it comes the time to assemble the brake and throttle linkages and to route the servos’ wires. The instructions are clear but you must make sure that all linkages are operating freely and are correctly adjusted.

    As always, Team Associated has included spacers of different thickness for the servos. They are used to mount as low as possible the servos without touching the chassis. Four different servos horns for the steering and four others for the brake/throttle are included. Each of them has a different number of splines to accommodate Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec and JR servos. Because the Team Associated’s servos that I use have the same number of splines as the Futaba’s, I used the horns with a F printed on. You’ll need use a 3mm drill bit to enlarge the servo horn’s holes. For the steering and the throttle, you must enlarge the hole that is at the end of the horn but for the brakes, you must enlarge the middle hole on the brake side of the horn. When attaching the brake bias block and the throttle pivot, don’t over tight the nuts and make sure the pivot and the block can move freely.

    Before attaching the radio tray to the chassis, make sure the servo’s wire are routed correctly to not squeeze them between the radio tray and the chassis. If you use transponder, this is the right time to install it. Of course the pictured transponder is not included with the kit J
    The manual recommends the use of thread lock during the assembling but I prefer wait until the engine has been installed and when the throttle and brake linkages have been perfectly set and adjusted with my radio. I then remove all the set screws one at the time and apply thread lock to each of them. To facilitate access to the set screw, I made sure they were all pointing up. This will make future adjustments easier. Of course, when you adjust the linkage, you must first reset all your radio’s trims to zero.
    [​IMG]
    A little trick, I’ve bent the end of each small body clips used for the receiver box. This makes removal and installation really much easier.


    Bag L
    Assembling Bag L is the coolest step of the whole assembling. This is the bag where we install the fuel tank, the air filter, the tuned pipe and the engine. After this bag, the buggy will almost be ready to run. No new part in this bag, all the parts still the same.

    It takes only few minutes to install the fuel tank. As for the receiver box, I suggest you to bend the body clips to facilitate installation and removal of the fuel tank. Another 5 minutes is required to assemble the air filter. Don’t forget to oil the inner and the outer filters. On the pictures, the outer filter is not oiled, I’ll oil it before starting the engine. It is very important to zip tie the air filter to the engine. If you loose your air filter, you have good chance to ruin your engine.

    Team Associated has included a shock tool that is also very useful to make clutch springs installation a breeze, use it and you’ll save time. Depending of your engine, you may need to add few more shims to the clutch. When tightening the clutch nut, make sure the clutch spins freely with no more than 0.5mm of play.

    The manual explains clearly the rest of the assembling. Like for the throttle and brakes’ linkages, I have waited that everything was perfectly assembled before applying thread lock to all the screws.
    I’ll skip the Bag M because it shows how to install the body and the tires. Team Associated has included a JConcepts Punisher body. You’ll need to paint and trim the body. The wheels are included but you’ll need to buy the tires separately.
    [​IMG]
    Starting at page 34, there are some cool tips that you must at least read once. They give great information on the tuning of your RC8.2 buggy and how to get the best of it.




    Full guide and more pictures can be found by clicking on those links

    Bag ABag BBag CBag DBag EBag FBag GBag HBag I - Bag JBag KBag L
     
  2. Jeff L

    Jeff L Member

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    nice machine
     
  3. AERacer

    AERacer Administrator Staff Member Moderator Factory Member

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    Thanks, unfortunately, the buggy is no more that clean !
     
    Martijn likes this.
  4. Jeff L

    Jeff L Member

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    I have a new rc8 do i need to oil the filter or is it pre oiled
     
  5. Jeff L

    Jeff L Member

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    What nitro content should I use 20% ok or higher ???
     
  6. AERacer

    AERacer Administrator Staff Member Moderator Factory Member

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    What RC8 do you have, RTR ??
     

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