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New Caster blocks and spindle for the RC8.2

#2
Out of stock on AE's website so I guess it'll be a while until they are available. :(
 
#3
These parts are now listed on Tower Hobbies bur not available yet:
89565- $63.99
89566- $57.99
89567- $13.69
 

ABN Hoosier

Well-Known Member
#4
I got mine Wednesday :sneaky:

Here is some info from FT driver Brandon Melton, ref to the new steering components. Since there are no instructions out yet...:mad:

Brandon said: "Also for the guys starting to get the new castor blocks and knuckles, here are a couple things to look forward to so it helps you with tuning.

-the knuckle is lowered a bit compared the to the stock ones, so you will run just a little less droop (shock length) to equal a setting your used to. Start with a bout 1mm difference and go from there.
-this will also change the bumpsteer slightly, add approx. 1mm washer to adjust for the lowered knuckle.
-the point at which the upper link goes into the caster block is raised 2mm compared to stock. This means that if you have been running 2Down in the top plate and 1 in the tower, you will now run 2 up in the top plate and 3 up in the tower for the same upper arm angle as before. Basically raise both inserts 2 dots."
 

ABN Hoosier

Well-Known Member
#6
Here are the install instructions:

 

Grant

Well-Known Member
#7
I got mine Wednesday :sneaky:

Here is some info from FT driver Brandon Melton, ref to the new steering components. Since there are no instructions out yet...:mad:

Brandon said: "Also for the guys starting to get the new castor blocks and knuckles, here are a couple things to look forward to so it helps you with tuning.

-the knuckle is lowered a bit compared the to the stock ones, so you will run just a little less droop (shock length) to equal a setting your used to. Start with a bout 1mm difference and go from there.
-this will also change the bumpsteer slightly, add approx. 1mm washer to adjust for the lowered knuckle.
-the point at which the upper link goes into the caster block is raised 2mm compared to stock. This means that if you have been running 2Down in the top plate and 1 in the tower, you will now run 2 up in the top plate and 3 up in the tower for the same upper arm angle as before. Basically raise both inserts 2 dots."

Have you run your car yet with the ne blocks and hubs? How much of a difference did you notice?? mWas it worth the cost???
 

ABN Hoosier

Well-Known Member
#10
Let me know what you think. I have my opinion, but I want yours first for a comparison.
 

ABN Hoosier

Well-Known Member
#12
Yes. The set screws are placed there to keep it clean to block dirt entering. Then I guess you remove them to spray in lubricant. I would just disassemble them to service the bearings.
 

AERacer

Administrator
Staff member
Moderator
Factory Member
#13
Let me know what you think. I have my opinion, but I want yours first for a comparison.
Sure I'll let you know. I plan to write a review about the vertical block. No time to run the buggy yet, I spend most of my time promoting the forum
 

ABN Hoosier

Well-Known Member
#15
I had different results. I honestly felt the steering was more smoother as well. I felt like I had more steering. No push.

Check your end points on your steering servo. Make sure you are getting full throw with the car on the ground tires installed of course. Make sure nothing is binding. Especially where the outer hinge pin is secured with the set screws to the Caster Block.
 

ABN Hoosier

Well-Known Member
#17
Here's my set-up

 

ABN Hoosier

Well-Known Member
#19
I changed the set-up to what you see now. I cant exactly remember what it was before.

its hard to say exactly. on the shock oil weight. 47.5wt front and 35wt rear maybe?