For only 9.99$/year you can upgrade your account to RCTen Factory Team Member. Click for all benefits.
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

B4/B4.1 Tips, tricks and mods

Discussion in 'RC10 / B2 / B3 / B4.x / B5 / B5M / B6 / B6D' started by Martijn, Jul 8, 2012.

  1. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Hi,

    I thinks it's a good idea to start a thread dedicated to tip, tricks and mods for the B4 and B4.1

    Here are some thing I'v don't to my B4.1 to make maintenance easier:

    I changed the screws to the bigger ones, I'v stripped several of the standard ones..
    [​IMG]

    Also changed these so it's easier to loosen the bleu aluminum shock mounts.
    [​IMG]

    After the first races I ran, I managed to strip the standard screws so I changed them out for bigger ones
    [​IMG]

    I found these cva boots on ebay. I think they are still selling these.
    I bought the B44.1 ones, you get 3 pair and pay less then if you would buy 3x B4.1 cva boots..
    (This only fit's the B4.1..)
    [​IMG]

    And I recently done this mod to the wing.

    I had these spare wingmounts that I bought 2-3 years when I ran a B4.
    Since I don't break them, I done a little mod :)

    Cut the little thing were the clip goes off.
    [​IMG]

    Make the mount flat, I'v done this with a knife, you could use a file also.
    [​IMG]

    Take you bodyreamer or a drill and make a hole where the screw will go.
    Make new threads with the screw.
    [​IMG]

    If you do this also with the other mount you'll get something like this:
    Use a little shim or a countersunk washer to make it look even better!
    [​IMG]

    I hope you likes my little tricks/mods :D

    Don't forget to add yours too!
     
    AERacer likes this.
  2. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    When I was racing a B4 AND the GT2 came out these were the up dates that I did, so most of these are for the B4, don't know how many of these are parts at are used on a B4.1.

    6276 GT2 ballstud .200
    6277 GT2 ballstud .300
    7921 GT2 Steering Arms
    (to use these you will need to remove some material [where the axle come out at the wheel bearing] from the steering arm to work)
    7919 GT2 Front Caster Blocks (25 degree)
    7922 GT2 Front Caster Blocks (30 degree)
    9730 B44 rear hub
    7935 3/16x1/2 bearing
    7933 bearing crush tube
    7889 5/64 x 1/4 Bearing in place of Steering Rack Bushings
    3858 Black Ball Ends on Steering Rack
     
  3. AERacer

    AERacer Administrator Staff Member Moderator Factory Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2012
    Messages:
    9,331
    Likes Received:
    2,039
    I like the wing trick :)
     
    Martijn likes this.
  4. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Why would you want to change the ballstuds?

    Yes, the B44 is also a great upgrade
     
  5. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    Front axle tip! Works on any AE that has e-clips holding axles to steering arm. AND any racer that has any time racing with a e-cliped anything knows this. :biggrin:

    Shoe Goo the E-clip on the end of the axle. Reason, axles develop (end to end) a bit of play in the steering arm axle socket.
     
    Martijn and LeeSc10 like this.
  6. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    The "original" ball studs are softer.

    The "original" steering ball studs have a taller profile which makes "Bump out" adjustments harder to make.
     
  7. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Hmm oke, are the B4.1 ones also softer?
     
  8. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    IF they mount this way there stronger

    [​IMG]

    or like this weaker!!

    [​IMG]
     
  9. AERacer

    AERacer Administrator Staff Member Moderator Factory Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2012
    Messages:
    9,331
    Likes Received:
    2,039
    You difference them by the color or by the hex hole in the ball?
     
    Martijn likes this.
  10. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    [​IMG]

    Tall profile

    [​IMG]
    Short profile.
     
    Martijn likes this.
  11. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Well I never broke a ball stud so it can't be that soft :D
     
  12. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    The top has a inside hex (good) the bottom has a outside hex (bad)
     
    Martijn likes this.
  13. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    Most are broke at the rear link mount. Have had them break on a T4 shock tower link mount.
     
  14. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Never had that.. And when I had my first B4 (a RS) I ran on gravel, made huge jumps all the bad stuff :p
    Never broke a ball stud and the car also had the 'bad' once like you just explained :)
     
  15. tmail61

    tmail61 Well-Known Member Factory Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Messages:
    4,428
    Likes Received:
    911
    Found the info about the steering ball studs.

    ===

    Why black ballstuds are being used on the steering rack in a lot of the new set-up.

    The black ballstud is shorter so it lowers the inner pivot for less bump steer.
     
  16. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Some people run the Avid steering rank that hasn't got a servosaver.
    If you want also a non-servosaver steering rank, just glue the 2 parts together.
     
  17. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Another one ;)

    Put a washer on the screw that secures the shock on the rear A-arms.
    Prevents the ball end form popping off.
     
  18. nick.malato

    nick.malato Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2012
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    4
    With those CVD boots - you can also use shrink wrap. Save a few bucks does the save job.
     
  19. Martijn

    Martijn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,424
    Likes Received:
    214
    Yes, I tried this first but the shrinkwrap I have iq pretty stiff. So when the a-arms went up it was pretty hard, the shock boots are really flexible
     
  20. nick.malato

    nick.malato Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2012
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    4
    Guess it depends on the shrink wrap, mine was still pretty flexible. There are so many little tricks with these cars.
     
    Martijn likes this.

Share This Page

For only 9.99$/year you can upgrade your account to RCTen Factory Team Member. Click for all benefits.
Pro-Line Racing