Well, I got some time today to turn some wrenches on my kit, here are some build pics. Got the diffs built and the bolts were very tight when they reached the end. The diff cups must be made out of a stronger material, very solid. This thing is way more solid than my past builds with Team Associated, particularly the RC8B and RC8T. I like what I see so far. I betcha the RC8T will be rockin some of these ideas real soon. I dont like one less screw for the side guards, the back seems like it will be troublesome shown in the pics (no big deal though). The giant o-ring for the pin retainer on the diff (bling bling)outdrive is kinda cool I guess. The A-arms are really really thick and seem like they will last through a lot of abuse. The swaybar design seems like it works and they finally got that one nailed down with bigger ball linkages. The Caster blocks are new. The back of it allows the CVD to spin without rubbing on it when the a-arm is maxed out up/down. Worked on it for a few hours and called it quits for the night, here are some pics.
Here are some pics of my build from bag F to H. I got a few PM's asking for pics. (Taking pics during a build probably slows down the build 3000% BTW). I didnt get much built except for the rear end watching football and taking a zillion pictures. Again I am further convinced that this car is really solid, I feel like this thing is gonna be sweet. The wing is really unique.
I never was a real big Buggy guy, I was more into Truggy. I hate to say it, but I used to think a Truggy was a Large Buggy. Because the Buggy came first and all. But, after this build, so far, I am thinking this Buggy is a small Truggy. If that makes sense. I think driving this Buggy will be more suited for me as far as driving my RC8T. Anyway, oh, the grub screws for the swaybar are in bag H, in case you think you got shafted.... here ya go
I will post some more pics of the rest of my build. I had the below pics posted in a RC8.2 thread I made cuz I thought because of the amount of pics I was uploading it was justified on starting a "RC8.2 Build thread", but the powers that be deleted it. I guess too many RC8.2 threads. No big deal, I will just bomb this thread with the pics. Hope you guys are rockin U-verse or broadband internet connections :ha::ha::ha:
Anyway, here were some of the pics I put up. I will be installing the electronics and engine and building the center diff, today. Laterz
I just discovered that the kit was short 4 spacers. There is a spacer between the two o-rings on the bottom of the shock body and the same spacer is used on the shock shaft at the bottom of the shock boot. (page 23 of the manual) So, to do 4 shocks in the kit, the total is (shock boot washer/spacer 89352) 8. They are not sold individually, they are sold in the rebuild kit for like $11 and some change (which only rebuilds two shocks). So, those spacers would cost me roughly 25 bones....
I decided to put the spacer between the two o-rings on each shock body which would leave the shock shaft/boot without one. The build continues....
I must admit, I have RC8T's where the shocks come prebuilt and I wasnt as familiar with the shocks before I started with the RC8.2 shocks. I suggest (not sayin I am a Pro, but just suggesting) you shave just a little bit of materiel from the a-arm off where the shock end goes into it. It is very tight, which is good, because tight is good. Attach the a-arm side of the shock first, then the top on the shock tower. I was wrestling with it for a while. Loose is also good I guess according to the AE engineers too maybe, because the top of the shock (front & rear) has EXACTLY 1mm of play front to rear where the nut secures the shock to the shock tower. we'll see... The shock boots are much thinner than the boots of past and they dont bunch up and cause suspension interference. But because they are thinner, that usually means they will tear from nicks and stuff.
I like marking the shock collar with the dremel too, to help ensure even suspension. I screw the collar all the way tight and mark it with the dremel real light with a cutting wheel. I learned that from some RC genius, cant take the credit. Well, I am trying to load this at my Son's football practice via my Evo phone, hope it came out....likin this buggy more and more....laterz
I went to set the front droop to 106mm after installing the shocks. The max droop was about 102mm. Like you said the material on the a-arm hits the chassis droop screw ear not allowing the a-arm to correctly seat on the droop screw head. It looks like the dremel will have to remove some material from either the a-arm or the chassis ear......:tire::tire::tire:
Here are some pics of the issue. I think Team Associated needs to throw that mold away and get change 2 out on the front a-arms ASAP and hook up kit owners...:nod::nod::nod: Not sure how that made it past QA/QC... Oh well,
I still am likin this Buggy! :nod:
I have the Bonito in my RC8T, and it is a killer
I expect the Novarossi PLUS.21-4BTT to be a perfect fit on this buggy. I'll let you know...:tire:
Here are some pics of the Dremel job on the front A-arms to clear the chassis ears. I used the fat drum Dremel sanding wheel and it was butter. I have been following the set-up in the Box set-up. The book says “106mm” front Droop”. With the set-up the way it is, it cannot be done from where the Camber links are on the C blocks, so in the pics I pulled the outer hinge pin and it allowed the front arm to lower to the 106mm. I know in the "106mm pic I took with the Calipers that they arent centered, but I only have two hands and takin the pic was a Bi*ch...But, when I put the pin back in and the caster block back on the max droop I could achieve was 104.5mm. If your’re sayin “NBD”, I got ya, I am just savin you the headache when you go to set your droop. I would dremel the A-arm before you install it BTW, more headaches saved. I opened Bag “K” and setup the servo/RX tray. I got a PM asking about my CF modded tray (I told him “LOL, that is a "Hoosier" modded part. I drilled little holes and carefully, and I mean, CAREFULLY dremeled out the slots to accept the forward battery box. It surprisingly came out nice. I owned the old RC8T and it had the CF servo board and I was disappointed to see the RC8TCE version didnt rock it as well. I didnt feel like doing it with the RC8.s (wanted to keep it stock). But that pic was of my RC8TCE servo board.)
I used 20mm screws to make up for the thickness of the servo blocks, I highly recommend them to protect your servo ears, plus they look trick and aint heavy at all. Racers edge servo horns are awesome for the price, they clamp around the servo horn gear with two screws so it aint stripping or coming off (lock-tite everything) and the screw secures it from coming off, so 3 screws total ensuring you to not DNF because your servo horns. All for like $14….I foamed up my LIPO and the forward battery box is kinda cheap and I had to rock the Team Associated sticker to keep it closed tight. Since they decided to ditch the third screw on the chassis side guards the servo tray got short changed on the corner screw too. I put a little 3x3mm screw in the RX box to plug the hole for OCD sake. Well, I didn’t get much done, but here is the report and pics for those that have been PM’ing me….I am likin this Buggy more and more. I might have it built by Thanksgiving….I am off to AJ’s football practice! Laterz THE NEW FRONT A-ARMS FIX THIS
I got the engine mounted and my linkages set. Drilled and countersunk the 3mm hole for the KHZ motor mount. Came out sweet. I guess I will be breakin in the motor. I still gotta cut the body out and get the starterbox setup.....anyway, here are some pics. I included a pic of my modded Nutz, check em out ....laterz